From Orrest Head to Whinlatter Forest – Chasing Stick Man
Walk DETAILS
WALK 1 | ORREST HEAD
FELLS: Orrest Head (238m)
LENGTH: 3.4km
DURATION: 1h 22m
ELV. GAIN: 103m
AV. PACE: 24:11
DIFFICULTY: medium
DOG FRIENDLY: ✓
TODDLER FRIENDLY: ✓
BABY-SLING FRIENDLY: ✓
Walk the walk using All Trails
WALK 2 | STICK MAN TRAIL AT WHINLATTER FOREST
FELLS: None
LENGTH: 1.8km
DURATION: 39min
ELV. GAIN: 78m
AV. PACE: 20:37
DIFFICULTY: medium (for toddlers)
DOG FRIENDLY: ✓
TODDLER FRIENDLY: ✓
BABY-SLING FRIENDLY: ✓
Julia Donaldson’s Stick Man Trails: What to Expect
We’d been travelling by bus through the night. Starting in my hometown of Sint-Niklaas, we made our way to Oxford via the ferry from Calais. After a couple of days in Oxford – which, bizarrely, is Sint-Niklaas’s twin city – we travelled north again, this time all the way to Pitlochry.
Being a coach full of teenagers between fifteen and eighteen, no one really slept until the early hours, so when the sun began to rise over the misty, pine-covered hills, the bus was finally quiet. I was probably the only one awake – I’ve never been able to sleep unless I’m lying flat – and I remember feeling completely awestruck. It was my first proper glimpse of what I considered real mountains.
Unlike many of my classmates, I hadn’t been skiing in the Alps or travelled much outside Belgium and its neighbouring countries. While my parents had been well-travelled before having kids, our family holidays were mostly spent on the Belgian coast. That Scouts trip to Scotland was my first real adventure without them – and that view from the coach window is still one of those defining memories. It gave me an instant sense of belonging, like I’d found something I didn’t know I was missing.
I’ve been back to Scotland more than five times since, and somehow ended up settling in Manchester – almost by accident. It wasn’t until I moved here that I realised what an excellent base it is: so close to the Peaks, Wales, the Lakes, and even within reach of the West Highlands. The hills and mountains of the British Isles had captured my heart, and now I’m gently dragging my children along with me, hoping they’ll fall in love with them too.
A toddler’s first fell
Orrest Head was one of the first fells I ever climbed – one of the outlying ones – and I did it with my not-yet-husband. So when we were thinking about our three-year-old’s first proper hill walk, it felt like the perfect place to start. It’s pram- and wheelchair-friendly, and a lovely little summit for a little pair of legs. Plus, they’d recently added Stick Man to the Gruffalo statue on the way up – a solid win when trying to convince a toddler to leave the house.
We could’ve pushed the pram all the way, but instead popped the baby in the sling and let the toddler walk to see how far he’d manage. We brought the toddler sling as backup, just in case. He made it to the top with minimal help, we took the obligatory summit photos, and then headed back down in search of the Gruffalo.
And this is where things unravelled a bit.
There’s no disappointment quite like that of a hungry, tired toddler when things don’t go to plan. And unfortunately, the Stick Man, Fox, and Gruffalo were nowhere to be found. Instead, we found a piece of A4 paper stapled to a tree explaining that the statue maker had infringed on Julia Donaldson’s copyright, and had been told to remove them.
Apparently, the characters – now part of a £85 million empire – are managed by Magic Light Productions, who have an exclusive deal with Forestry England. They run ‘official’ Stick Man trails, and felt that the Orrest Head sculptures were competing with their commercial offering.
The closest official walk is the Stick Man Trail at Whinlatter Forest, described as “moderate” and “possibly accessible with a buggy, but there are some steep hills.” Now that we’ve done both, I can confidently say that there is no way a regular double pram or wheelchair could handle the Whinlatter route. But more on that in a moment.
Miles Without Stiles
Orrest Head is part of a brilliant initiative called Miles Without Stiles – a collection of accessible walking routes designed for people with limited mobility. That includes wheelchair users, families with pushchairs, the visually impaired, or just anyone who wants a gentle, stile-free walk. It’s perfect for little kids and families, and the Gruffalo statues made it even more special.
But as is often the case, profit trumps public benefit. The statue-maker wasn’t making money from the walk, and it would’ve been wonderful if Magic Light Productions had worked with him rather than punishing families and children by having the sculptures removed. Telling people to travel hundreds of miles to a Forestry England site instead – especially when they aren’t truly accessible – feels incredibly short-sighted.
And of course, now that my son knew there was another walk with the Gruffalo and Stick Man, we had to go. I was curious too – what was all the fuss about?
Whinlatter woes
The weather this week was spectacular, so Monday seemed like the perfect day for a forest walk. We packed up and drove the two hours north to Whinlatter Pass. I’d double-checked the website, made sure it said pram-friendly, and we brought our basic double pram. Our nine-month-old is getting heavier, and our toddler is very much in a running-off phase, so having both kids secured felt like the safest option.
But as soon as I saw the faces of people watching us unload the pram, I knew we were in trouble.
I popped into the information centre, bought the £4 Stick Man Trail Pack, and asked if the walk was really doable with a pram – “even a double one?” The staff member was confident that it was, so we reshuffled everything again and set off.
We lasted two minutes.
It was clear immediately that the trail wasn’t going to work with a pram. So we made a snap decision: I would take the toddler, and my husband would stay back with the baby. As most parents of small children know, unplanned swaps like that can leave everyone a bit flustered. We hadn’t had time to feed the baby properly before setting off, or discuss a plan, or even choose a meeting point. There was no phone signal either, so we couldn’t check in once we were apart.
The trail itself is just over a mile (about 2km), with steep sections and loose gravel. No chance the Joie Aire Twin was making it. It was manageable for my toddler, but challenging – and I ended up carrying him in the sling on my back for much of it, partly to speed things up and get back in case I was needed.
The trail is beautifully marked and the activities were brilliant – the Trail Pack was absolutely worth it. The lanyard and cards were sturdy and weatherproof, and the whole experience was clearly designed with kids in mind.
But in hindsight, I would’ve treated it like a hike, not a walk. We should’ve worn boots, brought a proper backpack, and left the pram at home. I pride myself on being prepared, so I’m still a bit annoyed at how badly I misjudged it – but as a wise friend reminded me, you can’t prepare properly if you don’t have the right information.
Worth it, still
Despite everything, both walks are absolutely worth doing. I still disagree with Magic Light Productions’ approach to the statues at Orrest Head, but I’ll happily go back to both trails again – next time with better gear and a bit more time. Whinlatter Forest is one of the most beautiful forests I’ve ever seen, and I’m already looking forward to exploring more of it.
